Clearing a jam safely
Power goes off at the breaker first, the obstruction is freed from the grinding chamber and the reset is set again. Ask to see whatever came out, since a bone chip and a spoon suggest very different habits worth changing.
A disposal that hums, stays silent or drips into the cabinet below is usually a short job, but only once someone has worked out which of those three problems you actually have. An independent plumber should check the unit, the wiring and the drain connection before quoting.
These point in different directions. Humming is a motor with power that cannot spin, silence is usually power or a tripped internal reset, and a drip is a seal or a connection rather than the motor at all. A disposal leaking from the very bottom of its housing has generally reached the end of its life, while one leaking at the sink flange or the dishwasher hose has not.

Many disposal problems are resolved in one visit. The value is in finding out why it happened, because a jam that keeps coming back is often a drain problem wearing a disposal costume.
Power goes off at the breaker first, the obstruction is freed from the grinding chamber and the reset is set again. Ask to see whatever came out, since a bone chip and a spoon suggest very different habits worth changing.
A silent unit can be a tripped reset, a failed switch, a loose connection or a burned-out motor. These are tested in order rather than assumed, so nobody replaces a working disposal because of a switch behind the cabinet.
The sink flange, the discharge elbow, the dishwasher inlet and the housing seams each leak in their own way. Resealing a flange or replacing a gasket is a small repair; a cracked housing is not, and you are told which one you have.
Safety first, because this is the one fixture where people reach in. Never put a hand into the chamber while the unit has power, and do not trust the wall switch alone โ turn the breaker off. Do not use chemical drain cleaner in a disposal either; it sits against metal seals, it rarely moves a jam, and it turns the job hazardous for whoever opens the trap next. If you have already poured some in, say so when you call.
What goes down the sink matters more in this city than most people expect. Hard Edwards Aquifer water leaves scale on the inside of drain lines, and grease clings to that rough surface instead of washing through. Add coffee grounds, rice, pasta, fibrous vegetable peels and eggshells, and the disposal keeps working while the pipe past it slowly closes up. Then the kitchen line blocks, and the disposal is blamed for a problem that started downstream of it.
Repair or replace comes down to age and where the leak is. A jam, a reset, a switch, a flange seal or a discharge gasket is worth fixing on almost any unit. A motor that has burned out, a chamber leaking through its own housing or a unit already a decade or more old is usually better replaced, particularly since a like-for-like swap is straightforward work. Ask the independent plumber which side of that line your unit falls on, and for a quote on both where both are real.
If the sink drains slowly after the disposal is cleared, the blockage is in the pipe rather than the unit, and drain cleaning is the right page. If several fixtures are slow at once, read about sewer line repair instead. Leaks under the sink that turn out to be the faucet or the shutoff valve fall under toilet and faucet repair.
Disposal work covers San Antonio and nearby communities, including Converse. See the rest on the service areas page, browse the full list of plumbing services, or describe what the unit is doing.
Whether it is a repair or a replacement, mainly. Clearing a jam, resetting the unit or resealing a flange is a short visit. Fitting a new disposal adds the cost of the unit itself and the time to disconnect the old one, including the dishwasher line. The independent plumber should quote at the sink once the fault is known, and if replacement is suggested, ask why before agreeing to anything.
The motor has power but the grinding plate cannot move, which means something is wedged in the chamber. Switch it off straight away, because running a jammed unit is how motors burn out. Do not reach in. Turn off the breaker, and if you are comfortable doing so, press the reset button on the underside. If it still will not spin, it needs to be opened up properly.
Jams, resets, switches and flange leaks are worth repairing at any age. A failed motor, a cracked body or water coming from the bottom seam of the housing is not, and on an older unit the replacement is usually the better value. Ask the independent plumber to show you where the water is actually coming from before that decision gets made.
Grease and cooking oil above all, since they harden in the line past the unit. Also coffee grounds, rice and pasta, fibrous peels such as celery and corn husks, bones, and anything stringy. Run cold water while it works and for a few seconds afterward. If the kitchen line has already been slow for a while, a drain cleaning visit will do more good than a new disposal.
Call and describe the unit's problem to reach an independent plumber.